Tuesday, November 30, 2010
Sunday, November 28, 2010
Phnom Penh
Following Angkor Wat, we spend the weekend in Cambodia. It happened to coincide with the annual Water Festival, and two million other Cambodians arrived in town as well. As many may know, there was a devastating tragedy on Monday. I don't know any more than what I read in the press, as we left on Sunday. Phnom Penh was a mix of fun and sad.
While still in Siem Reap, I was able to witness the preparation for the Water Festival. Groups of people practiced competitive rowing in long boats on lovely Siem Reap river.
And the big races on the Tonle Sap river in Phnom Penh.
Tuk-tuk drivers patiently waiting...
The festival gets going at night.
And fireworks and floats for everyone to gaze at.
The following day we went to the Genocide museum in a former school-turned-prison. The Cambodian genocide of 1975-1979 is an atrocity on the largest scale, and unfortunately frequently absent from western history curriculum. (Or at least mentioned perfunctorily.) Under the leader Pol Pot, 2 million Cambodians were brutally murdered. Seeing the museum, as well as the killing fields (one of the major sites where the executions were perpetrated), was a chilling experience. It has taken Cambodia a while to recover and reflect on its history, but the root of strong memorials are now present.
Back to my original comment that Phnom Penh is both exciting and depressing: the many troubles (economic, political) of the country are well-known. Touts and begging are a frequent experience, something far less common in Thailand. The exploitation of children in these operations was very visible, especially around Angkor Wat. Corruption is extensive here. The first time I experienced blatant solicitation of a bribe was when crossing the border into the Cambodian town of Poipet. Nevertheless, people are super friendly and seem to enjoy life despite the hardships. Poverty and tourism are bound to cause some uncomfortable friction, but people are able to get along with dignity in Cambodia.
While still in Siem Reap, I was able to witness the preparation for the Water Festival. Groups of people practiced competitive rowing in long boats on lovely Siem Reap river.
And the big races on the Tonle Sap river in Phnom Penh.
Tuk-tuk drivers patiently waiting...
The festival gets going at night.
And fireworks and floats for everyone to gaze at.
The following day we went to the Genocide museum in a former school-turned-prison. The Cambodian genocide of 1975-1979 is an atrocity on the largest scale, and unfortunately frequently absent from western history curriculum. (Or at least mentioned perfunctorily.) Under the leader Pol Pot, 2 million Cambodians were brutally murdered. Seeing the museum, as well as the killing fields (one of the major sites where the executions were perpetrated), was a chilling experience. It has taken Cambodia a while to recover and reflect on its history, but the root of strong memorials are now present.Back to my original comment that Phnom Penh is both exciting and depressing: the many troubles (economic, political) of the country are well-known. Touts and begging are a frequent experience, something far less common in Thailand. The exploitation of children in these operations was very visible, especially around Angkor Wat. Corruption is extensive here. The first time I experienced blatant solicitation of a bribe was when crossing the border into the Cambodian town of Poipet. Nevertheless, people are super friendly and seem to enjoy life despite the hardships. Poverty and tourism are bound to cause some uncomfortable friction, but people are able to get along with dignity in Cambodia.
Saturday, November 27, 2010
Angkor Wat
Angkor Wat in Cambodia must be seen to be believed. It is vast and intricate. Experts believe it to be the largest existing religious structure in the world.
Because I had to renew my visa, I decided to travel to Cambodia. After a long, dusty and beautiful overland journey, I arrived in the town of Siem Reap. Most of the temples at Angkor Wat are within biking distance, so the following morning I rented a bike and spent the day cruising in and between the temples.
A brief history: The structures were built over the course of a few centuries, starting around 800 AD. This golden age of the Khmer (main ethnicity of Cambodia) Empire coincided with the adaptation of the Hindu belief system, and the sculpture, architecture and reliefs feature Hindu beliefs. The scale of these ruins alone is astounding, but what is even more amazing is how detailed all the surfaces are. They iconography continues as far as the eye can see.
Tha Prohm, where nature has reclaimed great amounts of the structures. In some cases now, the trees are structurally integral to the temples.
A misguided attempt to find the large artificial reservoir that has served the community for over a millennium. This portion of the bike ride did turn into an insightful and comic adventure, with several "guides" who biked along side me and chit-chatted, great glimpses into rural Cambodian life, and basking in the excitement generated by a white man biking through their hood (in the form of endless "HELLO!")
The real highlight came at Bayon, a part of the Angkor Thom complex, when the skies parted and an afternoon downpour trapped several tourists in the ruins. The mood added to the ruins, and it was fun and memorable to wander around endless hallways and corners while trying to avoid the rain.
Because I had to renew my visa, I decided to travel to Cambodia. After a long, dusty and beautiful overland journey, I arrived in the town of Siem Reap. Most of the temples at Angkor Wat are within biking distance, so the following morning I rented a bike and spent the day cruising in and between the temples.
A brief history: The structures were built over the course of a few centuries, starting around 800 AD. This golden age of the Khmer (main ethnicity of Cambodia) Empire coincided with the adaptation of the Hindu belief system, and the sculpture, architecture and reliefs feature Hindu beliefs. The scale of these ruins alone is astounding, but what is even more amazing is how detailed all the surfaces are. They iconography continues as far as the eye can see.
Tha Prohm, where nature has reclaimed great amounts of the structures. In some cases now, the trees are structurally integral to the temples.
A misguided attempt to find the large artificial reservoir that has served the community for over a millennium. This portion of the bike ride did turn into an insightful and comic adventure, with several "guides" who biked along side me and chit-chatted, great glimpses into rural Cambodian life, and basking in the excitement generated by a white man biking through their hood (in the form of endless "HELLO!")
The real highlight came at Bayon, a part of the Angkor Thom complex, when the skies parted and an afternoon downpour trapped several tourists in the ruins. The mood added to the ruins, and it was fun and memorable to wander around endless hallways and corners while trying to avoid the rain.
Monday, November 15, 2010
dancing furries
and the mall folk who love them.
Off to Cambodia for the week: Angkor War and Phnom Penh!
Off to Cambodia for the week: Angkor War and Phnom Penh!
animals
While I generally abide by most of TLC's edicts, I have chosen to spend considerable time in Thailand in pursuit of waterfalls. Here is another great series of falls, Khao Chamao. These falls were rife with wildlife, including:a. many fish who aren't afraid to nibble your legs
b. toad
c. ants
d. spooky spider
e. butterfly
our Soi, pt. 2
Bangkok is a coffee city. Whether Thai style, with an intense amount of condensed milk, cream and sugar
or modern.
This is Wawee Coffee, one of the first places I frequented on our Soi. Since seventh grade I have yearned for a Central Perk of my own, and my ship has finally come in. How cool is it? Lets just note that your coffeeshop probably doesn't have a koi pond, and move on.
Bangkok is actually so coffee-fueled that many businesses are hybrid coffee shops. Credit card signup location / coffee shop. Language school / coffeeshop. And so on.
Another integral part of the Soi is the fruit vendor cart. Typical carts have four fruits: pineapple, watermelon, papaya and guava.
All are highly delicious.
or modern.
This is Wawee Coffee, one of the first places I frequented on our Soi. Since seventh grade I have yearned for a Central Perk of my own, and my ship has finally come in. How cool is it? Lets just note that your coffeeshop probably doesn't have a koi pond, and move on.
Bangkok is actually so coffee-fueled that many businesses are hybrid coffee shops. Credit card signup location / coffee shop. Language school / coffeeshop. And so on.Another integral part of the Soi is the fruit vendor cart. Typical carts have four fruits: pineapple, watermelon, papaya and guava.
All are highly delicious.
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