Malaysia

After a jaunt through the islands, we hopped on the train running from Bangkok to Singapore, and headed south into Malaysia. The golden hour provided a great lense on the Malaysian landscape through the train window.

We stopped in Tanah Ratah in the Cameron Highlands region for a couple days. These upcountry regions were known as hill stations during the colonial days, and bureaucrats and their ilk would come on vacation to escape the stifling heat of tropical cities. This area was the base for many excellent hikes. Here we are, trekking off into the Malaysian wilderness. 

We did several hikes, but by far the best was the one pictured above. We hiked up to the top of a small mountain, and then walked down the road amid gorgeous tea plantations. Color-coordinated brothers!

Worker in the tea fields.

And a quick day layover in Kuala Lumpur, where we checked out the Islamic Arts Museum, the Bird Park, and Chinatown.
Back in Bangkok, we happily obliged another trip to the top of the Centara Sky Bar, where we were treated to a viewing of a big storm sweeping through Bangkok.

Ko Tarutao

Stopped at Ko Tarutao for the night. This island is between Ko Lipe and the mainland. It has a degree of notoriety among Thais due to its history as a prison during the World War II era. In fact, some Thais I spoke to expressed the sentiment that they would never stay here due to the spirits that inhabit the island.
Tarutao is a national park. There are no resorts, only a couple park service bungalows. The island is desolate and pristine. Here is a huge swatch of beach I walked across, encountering only one couple in over an hour.

And a beyond spectacular sunset!

laser beams

I got LASIK! Despite people telling me it was just a little laser in your eye for a few seconds, it was actually long, weird and scary. But it went totally fine, and now I just have to keep my eyes clean for a week.
Here's a picture of me the day after for you to enjoy. BTW, whats up with my chest hair? If it was a Rorschach test, what would you think it is? Perhaps time for a waxing...

meditation update

You may have read in an earlier post that I was attempting to meditate every day for the month of April. While that did not happen, I did practice enough meditation to affirm that it can truly be a beneficial addition to daily life. Its tough to separate the effects of meditation from the natural ebb and flow of anxiety, but I believe that even after this short period of practice I now feel more calm and present. Beginning meditation may have been a life-changing action for me.
I found three free meditation podcasts on iTunes. They were mostly guided breathing and attempts to shepherd the listener into a relaxed mental state. Let me say this: its really hard at first, but gets much easier. I tend to be a naturally anxious person, and sitting still and focusing on breath seemed nearly impossible to me. I was able to do five days straight while staying in the islands (blogged the previous posts,) which was a spectacular start and nice beginning association for my practice. One podcast was particularly helpful in reiterating that meditation is a period in which one can be non-judgemental, even in one's own inability to meditate. (Deep Rest Guided Meditation by Meditation Island.) Its silly how easy it is, and how resistant I can be to practicing. Meditation should be one of the most inviting and immediately gratifying uses of time, but frequently I don't want to stop the mental tangents and swirls in my head and sit in quiet. I've found the more frequently I've been practicing, the easier it is to purposefully enter a relaxed state without actually doing the work. But if I haven't really focused on meditation in a few days or more, finding that zone proves more elusive.
Anyway, its difficult to express these ideas because: a. I don't really know what I'm trying to say, and b. its so intangible. Here is the most concrete example I can think of. I love riding my bike. I lived by Prospect Park in Brooklyn for many years, and rode the spectacular loop at least once a week after work during fair weather seasons. I always thought this would have a relaxing effect, and would try and sometimes leave the park disappointed that I did not feel noticeably different. This is because I was seeking tangible benefit, not simply experiencing the ride. A slight shift in perspective creates an entire new reality, and I look forward to continuing my practice. 

oh, sweet Ko Lipe

Shortly after brother Tim arrived, we traipsed off to the deep south of Thailand. A plane, a van and a boat got us to Ko Lipe, one of the most beautiful and relaxing places I have ever been. Behold, one of many sunset pictures you will see in the next few posts.

This is off the appropriately named Sunset Beach. The high season recently ended, and just a few stragglers enjoying sundowner cocktails set a very chill vibe. It reminded me a little of the shore after Labor Day.
While Tim took a scuba class, Maki and I took a day trip on a long tail boat to the surrounding islands and snorkel spots. Ko Lipe is the only developed tourist island in the middle of a huge marine national park. So lots of beautiful, wild islands as you can see in the background below. Here was an interesting black rock beach that we stopped at.

White sand, longtail boats and the sea.

Jack's Jungle Resort, with its outdoor Gilligan's Island style bathroom. The shower water came out of a coconut! Add outdoor bathroom to my fantasy house features.

Tim and I eating dinner on the main beach.

day trips from Bangkok: beaches

Being within driving distance of the beach is a tremendous asset for a city. I've pretty much always lived within two hours of a beach (Ocean City, Coney Island...) and felt deeply sad for people who live in states like Nebraska. There are two main options close to Bangkok.
First up is Ko Samet. Very beautiful, even for Thai standards. About a 2-3 hour drive, followed by a short ferry ride. Maki's co-workers planned the trip, and I was lucky enough to tag along. Relaxing small hotels and restaurants right on the beach. Here is a dog relaxing under my chair, with the beach stretching out beyond it.

And then there is option two, notorious Pattaya. Pattaya is an unruly beast that sprang up during the Vietnam War era. (Or as they call it in Vietnam, the Second War for Independence.) Bangkok has a couple red light districts, and most visitors are pretty shocked to see these one block-long stands of go-go bars and hostess bars. Well, take that one block and mushroom that into miles on endless red light sprawl. Pattaya is truly the sex tourism capital of the world. The sheer number of places like the two pictured below was unbelievable.

Much like Atlantic City, however, segments of the community are trying to clean up their act and diversify. So walking down the street you would pass: sex tourist, Russian family, sex tourist, bus full of Chinese tourists, sex tourist, young Thai couple, etc.
Here is pretty much the prototype of the traditional Pattaya visitor (also get a look at the beach, which is far less stellar than Ko Samet):

But suffice to say, Pattaya does have a lot of interesting things besides the nightlife. Beach, good restaurants, people-watching, and Miss Tiffany's lady-boy revue. Here is a picture of me and one of the Tiffany's girls.

kareoke bday

My brother Tim was in town for some time (more on that later) that included both of our birthdays. So a fun and debauched night of kareoke was the agenda. Here we are at dinner.

And then the singing began. We wanted a small room, but could only find a full bar setting. So in between our Backstreet Boys and Lisa Loeb, really good Thai patrons sang ballads and uptempo pop songs.

Most of the kareoke was accompanied by random unofficial music videos. By far the best was this one accompanying "My Heart Will Go On" from Titanic. Instead of majestic shots of the Titanic, the whole video was random b-roll footage from the back of some guy's speedboat! I could not contain my laughter as the wake trailed on.

And almost topping that was another song (not sure which one) in which the video followed a wistful women in a crazy eighties jacket. Even better, the segments of her wandering with alternated with shots of...pelicans on the beach! What?? Was she sadly remembering her brood of pelicans?

Anyway, the celebration continued long into the night, and it was a great birthday.